Zero Day in Grandas de Salime - How to Walk the Way and some Trail Chores
Today is my first “zero day,” or day of zero hiking and rest, on the Camino for some recuperation, and the chance to do some typical trail chores. I’m been asked about the logistics of the Camino, that in my case is basically a well supported three week two hundred mile through hike. In this blog I’ve focused until now on the sites, my reflections, and sharing photos of interesting things along the way (that I hope you’ve also enjoyed!), but as some have asked, and perhaps fellow hikers and pilgrims reading this might be curious in their own prep, I’ll share a bit on some of the more prosaic elements of a multi-day hike. I’m very thankful that I’m able to travel this way, a far cry from my grungy 18 year old Interrailing and youth hostel days.
For starters, I chose to work with a local tour company to make my inn and hotel private room reservations in advance for each stage. I really like the smaller countryside inns, often in old farm houses and such, in nice settings. Above my country inn in Berdocedo, that featured one of the Horreos I previously talked about, and this nice patio with bar for an evening sidra. Can you spot the tell tale sign of a passing pilgrim? Apparently overcrowding is becoming a problem on the Caminos, frequently confirmed by more experienced pilgrims I’m meeting. It has led to groups of, let’s call them, free range pilgrims, to often rise by 5am or so, rushing off to complete the distance and competitively secure their albuerque bunks or rooms at their daily destination. Finding them often full by noon, they then rush on to the next town, or several towns, to find a bed. Sometimes they book 2-3 days ahead - another hassle. Another reason for the private room is I’m a terribly light sleeper, and the group alberque dorms, full of snoring or chatty pilgrim groups, could easily result in sleep deprived shambling and mumbling, and far less coherent blog posts. It might have been more of a “Look, how cool!” Instagram mid photo kind of update instead, disappointing my vast readership.
So the free range idea for this first time out just did not appeal. Especially the thought of spending a couple of hours each evening just searching for a bed, taking those mountain top breaks and instead of closed eyes, deep breathing, and contemplation - instead jumping into the Google machine to find a spot, texting them, etc.. I chose to have my bed secured, so I can focus on the walk, on stopping at interesting sites, meeting pilgrims, peeking through church keyholes (thanks Jason P., Camino veteran, for the advice!) pausing to meditate, pet the dogs, sniff the flowers, and so on.
On gear and what I carry daily. As this is my first significant longer format through-hike, I chose not to carry everything with me daily, as is more common with many through-hikes and on the Camino, especially for the free-range pilgrims. I’ve backcountry camped with all my gear (for maybe a couple of nights), but wanted to reduce the risk, especially in this terrain, of an overuse injury. I’m especially nervous of my back possibly going out, that many friends know I’m irrationally afraid of, after two experiences that knocked me flat. Also, complimenting the pre-reserved rooms, I’m having a suitcase with extra clothing, toiletries, extra supplies, and so on transferred daily to my next hotel. My daily routine is to drop the bag at the front desk by 8:00am, breakfast, and hit the trail.
My day pack is the little Osprey 26L, a good size for my daily gear and featuring excellent ventilated back padding and hip strap, that repositions weight to my hips, off my fussy back. The big daily weight is water (with electrolyte tabs, I like Nuun with a little caffeine boost), plus some nutrition, spare socks and underwear, small sun screen, phone, first aid kit (with blister supplies!), battery charger (essential, btw, if you are using power-hungry navigation apps like AllTrails for six hours plus), some cash, and my light waterproof shell. In the less rural sections of the trail, there are little markets every few miles or so, letting you lighten the load. I’d guesstimate I’m at 15-20 pounds daily, depending on water.
Now the downsides of the Camino “hotel people” approach. Going free range, so no reservations, no itinerary, carrying everything you need, does enable a spontaneity and freedom of adventure. It’s an extra challenge that I admit is potentially really appealing, perhaps in future with a Camino or two under my belt. It would allow you to side-quest more often, or, if you had a rough day, take distance off or even zero. You can flexibly try noisy dorm albuergues one day, a private room the next, a four star city hotel another for solid sleep and a bathtub. Also, you miss some of the group Camino camaraderie that spontaneously erupts on the patio, bars, and lawns of the albuergues, a nice pilgrim party scene.
I’m happy I chose my approach (my back indeed got sore and twitchy in my first six tough days of climbs and descents, but managed by Ibuprofin), but recognizing my paranoia, the problem and solution is probably way more obvious: lack of core strength and flexibility, especially in prepping for a big hike like this. I’m told by day six or eight or so you get your trail legs and most ailments clear up, that I’m looking forward to finding out. Even some of the big pack pilgrims admit to a little jealously at us clicking along with our adorable little blinged out day packs, with our luggage and better stocked supplies chauffeured ahead of us. And I still enjoy pilgrim fellowship (as you’ve read), especially at lunch or in post-trail bars, but I do like to get back to my private room to reflect through this blog, socially recharge, and sleep well.
Feel free to drop more questions in the chat, happy to answer anything that comes up! To finish up, here are some photos me doing a little hiking maintenance, in particular picking up some supplies I forgot to pack, or didn’t even think of.
Love this update! Would also love to know, now that you’ve done this, what would you do differently, if you could? And more tips for people planning this? And would you do this again, or what’s next for Jimmer? :)
Nutella?! Who knew?!